A memory of my seven hours of walking in the dusty roads and hills of Petra, Jordan

Last year, I traded my loved job with a Round the World ticket to claim a new citizenship, a citizen of the world. I spent 12 months travelling, packing only a suitcase to get to my dream destinations. These include the opportunity to see before me ALL the 7 New Wonders of the World. Aside from the travel essentials, I packed along a strong courage and smart endorsement of affordability for a remarkable experience to create a trip-of-a-lifetime filled with amazing memories. The world was my home, my amusement room, my bedroom, my walls and my doors.

To make that ultimate decision, I only had to ask myself one question: “What have I got to lose in a year?” In my head, it was all so clear to me—what have I had to lose when placed in contrast with all that I was to gain. We hear and read things like; “live life as there is no tomorrow”, “life is short,” “you only live once,” “live life to the fullest” and the list goes on. As a solo traveler, courage was all I needed to allow me to plot a plan to warrant my decision. Worry free, self-satisfaction, state a living purpose and invested lifetime experience, are my catalytic powers to have the courage and key reasons just to do it intrepidly.

Then again, all my anticipation for the travel ahead was not without worry and anxiety. The daunting reality of the unknown constantly dogged me but by the time I finally had a solid plan, I knew I made the right decision and I was finally ready for my quest to tick off ALL the boxes from my bucket list. It was a mixed of excitement and sadness, but the endless possibilities radiated beneath me. The thought of taking charge of my life gave me a sense of freedom to know myself and everything about me. I learnt more about the world first-hand and in my way. It was far more beyond travel books, magazines, brochures, travel shows and Internet sites.

After a year, I brought back an excess of a lifetime of experiences packed with remarkable cultural knowledge, ways with clever ways to deal with the four seasons, skills to adapt to different cultures and people’s behaviors, familiarity with unfamiliar food and delicacies, tips to discover remarkable history, new foreign words, an understanding of time zones difference and value of money spent, poignant memories of amazing landscapes, and several relationships with newly made friends. My journey to find the world became a journey to understand who I truly am. I found myself living a minimalistic lifestyle, discovering how I could actually live in the moment free of all inhibitions and personal restraint.

The most rewarding part of my trip was when I signed up for a four-week volunteer program in Peru.

The native locals on their way to the festival, Eugenio Espejo in Ecuador

The pinnacle was the seven hours of walking in the dusty roads and hills of Petra, the day I finally claimed that I had seen it ALL, the new 7 Wonders of the World. The most challenging time was on my fourth month, when I was close to returning following a health advice from a medical practitioner. But with my stubbornness, determination and self-healing, I decided to pursue with my travel plans—and although I do not advise impertinence, I must say it has its occasional rewards.

I experienced White Christmas in New York, which was a fulfillment of my childhood dream; I braved myself by hopping in a car with strangers in Ciego De Avila in Cuba. I stood in the tip of the mysterious and magical Machu Picchu. I went through the agonizing yet fun adventure by crawling through the dirt and rocks to get out of the mines of Cerro Rico in Potosi Bolivia. And how can I forget the Argentinean gastronomical experience and wellness in the picturesque town of Valparaiso? I witnessed a lot of amazing structures and events, which mark the various highlights of my trip. These include the biggest cross underground in the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquira in Bogota,

My favourite shot – Galapagos Albatross, caught in action!

the snorkeling experience in the midst of playful sea lions, swimming sea turtles and hundreds of tropical fish during my Galapagos expedition,

Fira in Santorini

the astonishing Santorini, the awe-inspiring wadis of Oman, the glorified, coloured, glamour, music and culture event of the year at the Rio Carnaval and the unimaginable land beneath the Mekong Delta. All these experiences added essence to my journey in the wonder world. Of course, I most enjoyed the time I was reunited with families and long time friends. Truly I can only go on and on. Even these words and this deliberate attempt at an exposition of my journey fail to capture the true measure of its worth and value.

Having returned, I must say that Melbourne is truly incomparable. It is our home after all that won the world’s most livable city. My one year adventure had sadly ended with encrypted memories that will last for a lifetime along with thousands of pictures I have captured. Never did I imagine I would do such a trip, which was once a dream and now turned into reality.

“An adventure is an affair; taking a risk from the norm, lose sight from all familiar comfort, and discover new things and new ways to bring an undeniable pleasure in a unique and rewarding discovery, a new vigor to the mind. It is a wonderful world out there and waiting for you to enjoy and unlock your curiosity. Litter yourself in your chosen destination, make it real, not in digital style.”

To my audience who lived vicariously in my travels, my wonderful friends and loving family, I undoubtedly would have not made it to ‘the final curtain’  without your continued support and motivation to END what I started. Thank you so much.

Through thick and thin, there are two special persons I want to extend my greatest gratitude to, my cousin Mark and my best friend Lisa who has been my rock from day one. Lisa is an extraordinary friend with wonderful patience with my endless change requests to my itineraries resulting to multiple reissues.

For every good storyteller and writer brings a great editor and that’s no one else but my American-based cousin, Mark. In the back and forth online communications in different time zones, together we gave you what I would hoped you found interesting and informative piece to read. Mark tediously worked hours day and night to come up with an enticing piece and fully supported me with storytelling despite of his highly demanding real job. I am sure he will be glad to put an end to my demands, and disagreements in coming up with a perfect teaser.

Lastly, to Anthony Valeriano from eTB. Thank you for your incredible support and continued praises throughout, and to your wonderful editorial team for putting up with so many of multiple changes and submission delays. From courage to anticipation, it created an experience and a memory of a trip-of-a-lifetime, a journey that I call my own.

Let me share one of my favourite travel quotes and ask yourself what you would remember the most in 5 years, 10 years or 20 years time? “

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” – Mark Twain

We cannot live within the confines of our daily grind forever. Sometimes, we need that ounce of insanity to move us to put down our pens, leave behind our laptops, forget the financial ledgers and just sail away. Start your dream, claim it and own it—the world awaits.

I would like to farewell my journey with my favourite snap shots and a summary of my escapade, inspired by the song ‘My Way’ for such was the journey I had concluded, my own path, my own way.

So now the end is here And as
I face the final curtain
My friends I say it clearI state my case of which I’m certain

I’ve lived my dreams these last 12 months
And seen the world and all its highways
I’ve laughed and cried and seen the lot
And may I say not in a shy way
That through it all that I stood tall
And did it my way!

So now I’m back where it began
A brand new start is what awaits me I
know not where my future lies
I’m ready now for what fate brings me

I’ve had my fun for one whole year
Have travelled many varied pathways
I ate them up, and spat them out
Now might I add but in my own way
Some things may change but through it all
I did it MY WAY

Comments courtesy of etravelblackboard.com

© 2012 by Michelle Riel, retains sole copyright to her contributions to all the contents of this site.

Graciously dressed appropriately for Wadi Shab –
so not glamourous swimwear in high heat!

The first thing that I checked when I woke up was my cuts and bruises. Voila! I was able to prove that local remedies do wonders. I was so looking forward to doing another dip in the pool, this time at Wadi Shab (which means ‘gorge between the cliffs), a riverbed with stunning emerald green water. Suleiman was right that the pools here are better than the ones in Wadi Bani Khalid.

We finally arrived at the Wadi Shab at around 11 am. I was all set for another surprise. I was dressed up in my denim shorts and t-shirt, comfortable walking shoes, a hat and sunglasses. I made sure I applied a generous amount of sunscreen to protect myself from the high sun.  We started our walk under the blistering heat of the June sun and spent 45 minutes crossing a low tide river under the bridge of Wadi Shab through the rocky paths. Later on, I noticed that my shoes were already soaking wet.

Finally a pool track to reach Wadi Shab cave pool

Along the way we met Juma and Khalfan, friendly locals in the neighborhood, who eventually joined with us. We walked along the river stretch and as we approached to the deeper part of the river, I decided to change from denim shorts to a more comfortable available outfit (a traditional men Omani wrap around). All of a sudden my head started aching because of the dry heat. I decided soaking my cap into the water.  It was a good remedy to keep my head cooler. I had to slow down on the next track as we go through the big, massive, humongous rocks. It was definitely the hardest part of the track, as we had to climb up and down and some rocks were slippery.

Finally we got to the pool track ready to get through the entrance of the cave pool.  At this point, we had to leave our personal belongings, except my camera, which Khalfan offered to carry.

When I decided to visit Oman, I was picturing myself dune bashing in a 4WD, charging up and down the mountainous slopes (unfortunately they’re not available during summer time). Instead, I found myself sliding sideways with my life jacket on (a survival kit for non swimmer) as we got through a very narrow water channel between two sandstones.  Few minutes later, I entered an oasis, a cave pool surrounded by sandstone walls, and strong current waterfalls. This is the part of the path where you will need a local guide to help you locate the cave entry via the water channel.  A tour guide is highly recommended as the place was not that easy to get around. To reach the cave, you need around 45 minutes of trekking. But without a guided tour, you may end up wandering for hours around the Wadi.

Inside the cave as you look up, a shade of sunlight shines through. Suleiman was right when he assured me by saying “you will love it, when you see it.”  True enough, I fell in love so much with the place that I wanted to stay all day long and learn how to swim. I also enjoyed watching the guys diving.  Kids would absolutely love this type of adventure.  It was perfect destination for a family outing.

As an expression of the traditional Omani hospitality, Khalfan invited us for an authentic Omani lunch at his humble abode.

The best time to visit Oman is during winter season, September through April.  Whilst the heat was my no. 1 enemy on this trip, I was pleased to be in the company of my new found friends: ‘Jabel Akhdar,’the local bottled water, and ‘Nakhala,’ the resident palm trees and my shade. With the heat and the long walks one loses a lot of sweat. I consumed 4-5 small bottles of water a day. Take plenty of water – especially if you go during summer season.

Hawijat Najm Park (Sink Hole Park)

At 3 pm, we were back on the road heading back to Muscat. Along the way we drove by the White Beach on the coast of Qalhat, a 15-minute drive from the Wadi Shab.  Our next stop was the Hawijat Najm Park (Sink Hole Park). Here, you will find a circular wall with a deep hole of fresh and sea water surrounded by sandstone walls.  This park is popular among local kids, especially for swimming.

At 5 pm, I checked in at my refuge for the evening, the luxurious Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa in Al Waha. The hotel was indeed the perfect place to end the wonderful Arabian experience.  The hotel is one of the largest of the three hotels in Muscat. It is located at the foot of the mountain range by the bay of Al Jissah.

Barr AL Jissah beach, Shangri-la is located nearby

The front desk staff was remarkably exceptional.  I was welcomed with a genuine smile and a glass of refreshment by Divina, one of the hotel staff. She also personally ushered me to my room.

My room was overlooking the beautifully landscaped pool and the beach.  After a most needed shower, I dined at the ‘Samba Restaurant’ for a sumptuous buffet. Buffet was a wholesome selection of hot and cold foods.  My favourite section was the Seafood area where you can pick a cut of fresh piece of fish ready to be cooked the way you like it.  Breakfast was a greater surprise, where I’ve been able to have my old time favourites, Eggs Benedict.

Suleiman made my visit enjoyable and memorable. I can’t say enough to his dedication and passion to his work. His patience was my chill pill to combat the daily heat that I had to endure. His laid back attitude shined throughout. He’s indeed a good asset in the service industry business.  I was also fortunate to have relaxed drivers who made our road trips safe.

Oman is indeed a royal land with full of surprises, endowed with rich traditions and cultures, awe-inspiring sights and warm and hospitable people. Oman is a highly recommendable travel destination.  The 5 days adventure I shared with you justifies all the good reasons why Oman needs to be in your travel destination bucket list.

To Oman Tourism, thank you for an incredible historical and cultural familiarity that brought great essence of my Arabian experience, an experience that I will forever remember.

In this article, I am delighted to feature Sultanate of Oman Tourism who fully sponsored my recent visit to Oman. Visit tourismoman.com.au to view list of major wholesalers in Australia as well as New Zealand.

© 2012 by Michelle Riel, retains sole copyright to her contributions to all the contents of this site.

Nizwa Castle & Fort

After breakfast, we were ready to hit the road. Our first stop was to a local suoq (market) in Nizwa – a famous destination and typically busy on Thursdays and Fridays.  The suoq has distinct features as compared to the other traditional markets that I have been to. Here you will find a goat market and different halls for various foodstuffs, like fruit and vegetables, fish and meat, and a separate section for the dates. The food section is the most impressive part of the suoq – it was spotlessly clean. Next to the souk is the widest tower in the country, the Nizwa Fort. It measures 40 metres high and about 50 metres wide. The top of the tower featured the finest panoramic view of the whole town.

Bidiyah Village

While in Oman, never miss to visit the traditional Bedouin homes, built of palm fronds and mud, in Bidiyah. These houses are locally known as ‘barasti’. This should be combined with a trip to the sand dunes.  There are few locations with sand dunes in Oman and I highly recommend seeing the amazing dunes when the season is more bearable.  We did a quick drive through the dunes. The sand was spectacular. Just imagine driving through miles of honey coloured sands. And as the sun beams through the sand it changes its colour to shades of gold.

The inviting main pool of Wadi Bani Khalid

Part of my day itinerary as planned was to have an elaborate picnic lunch. However, we opted for a ‘quick n easy’ picnic style.  We spotted a shade before entering the Wadi Bani Khalid and laid our mats and enjoyed nibbling a variety of combined healthy and junk foods composed of cheese and pita bread, chips, cans of sodas, a can of  ‘hummus,’ cups of ice cream, bananas and grapes (all together only cost 1.5 OMR). It was a relaxing picnic style. From where we were seating, we had a view of the oasis pool, with a well-maintained clear blue-green regular stream of water. We saw several locals having a picnic and swimming.

A swim at the Wadi Bani Khalid was an introduction to more exciting things that this place can offer you. The natural pools were amazing and definitely another highlights of the day trip.  We walked about 15 minutes before reaching the natural pool. It was so awesome to feel the clear fresh water. And on a hot day the feel of the water was celestial. Kids were everywhere happily wading in the main pool area and diving in back flips off the bridge whilst the mothers, in their traditional Oman attires, patiently watched them with no intention for a dip. We spent a good hour to relax and enjoy the experience.

Suleiman and I ventured for a nice dip further away from the main pool where the water was more enticing and hidden between all shapes of sandstones cuts.  As I took a dip, I felt and certainly enjoyed the tiny little fish nibbling at my feet and toes, taking advantage of my dead skin. It was such a hilariously tingling experience!  I continually moved my feet to keep the fish away.  In the main pool, you must take note that appropriate swimming clothing for women is required – a short and t-shirt.

Charming Al Ayjah village

At 4 pm our road tour continued and headed down to Sur, which was an hour and 5 minutes trip.  We stopped by at the Al Ayjah village, a coastal town of Sur, famous for its traditional dhow building yards. We observed on how local craftsmen build dhows in the traditional way without the aid of drawings.

We stayed the night at Ras Al Jinz Resort, a B&B lodging style. The hotel is part of the Ras Al Jinz Turtle Centre.  Rooms are in reasonable size, equipped with mini fridge and LCD TV. A guided Green Turtle Excursion is complimentary when staying at the Centre. The beach is only open to the public up to 5pm to protect the turtle species.  At 9 pm, we were all gathered in the dark behind the hotel to be briefed about certain regulations to follow as we walk towards the shore.  It took us 10 minutes to walk and reach the shore with the aid of a flashlight while Saud, our tour guide, continued talking and providing us the instructions.

It was an exciting moment for everyone, especially when Saud finally found the turtle-nesting site. We quietly observed the huge mother turtle laying her eggs. It was an absolutely amazing experience to witness the eggs dropping into the sand like a stream of water flowing. Though turtles come pretty much all year round, I was even luckier since the best time of the year to witness them happens between June and October. According to Saud, mother turtles would return at the exact birth location to lay 100 to 125 eggs each time. That’s a lot of eggs!  Those were all good memories instilled, as no picture taking was allowed. I managed though to take a snapshot when one of the mother turtles was going back to the water.

Tomorrow’s article is my last full day in Oman and the ultimate highlight of the visit.

I am delighted to feature Sultanate of Oman Tourism who fully sponsored my visit to Oman. Visit tourismoman.com.auto view list of major wholesalers in Australia as well as New Zealand.

© 2012 by Michelle Riel, retains sole copyright to her contributions to all the contents of this site.

Misfat Al Abreyeen, a village where
houses cling to the rocks

Day 3 was full of interesting sights and fun experience.  As we started to descend from the summit, we spent time to enjoy, once again the spectacular view of the Grand Canyon.  After enjoying the awe-inspiring view, we went to explore Nizwa, the former capital city of Oman, and its villages:  the Wadi Ghul Village, a beautiful deep canyon in the mountain range that overlooks terraces of corn and wheat; and the Misfat Al Abreyeen, a village where houses cling to the rocks.

We parked and spent time walking around the village of Misfat Al Abreyeen.  One of the interesting spots we visited was the hot spring pool and the authentic rock-made showers each for men and women. I saw a couple of farmers climbing the date tree to harvest its fruits. The next thing I did was to climb one of the trees, not to harvest dates but to find a perfect angle to take photos.  Few seconds later, I fell out of the tree and landed with my butt – fortunately with no serious injury, but just scratches and bruises on the left hand, both arms and elbows, and all over my stomach. It stung painfully!! I washed it off from the running spring water from the ‘falaji’ (water channel) to do an alternative first aid remedy.  Despite of the heat and aggravating pain, we continued walking around the date, lime, and mango trees orchard.  We took a break to chat with one of the locals carrying basketful of freshly picked mangoes. He offered me one piece and graciously, peeled and cut a slice for me to taste.

Bahla Fort, the biggest and oldest forte

At 10 am, we proceeded to our next stop, the old village of Bait al Sahfa, known for its locally produced bread.  Unfortunately, we didn’t get the chance to try their breads as shops are only open between the months of September to April. We then decided to proceed to our last morning stop at Bahla Fort, the biggest and oldest fort in Oman. Unfortunately the fort has been under renovation and restoration for the past 15 years. The only way to get a view of the fort is to drive up to the other side of the hill.

According to Suleiman, who happens to be a native of Bahla, the town, during its olden days used to be the centre of magic and traditional healing. To give aid to my scratches and bruises, he brought me to his family home for a traditional medicinal fix.  He phoned his mother about our coming visit. Her mother graciously asked if I could join them for lunch. There are many local restaurants in Bahla to fully enjoy the traditional Omani foods at a very affordable price but to experience the local Omani hospitality is priceless. I’ve asked Suleiman if I could bring something for her mother. On our way, we stopped at a fruit shop for a box of 5 kg of bananas at an astonishing price of 1.50 OMR (A$ 1 = 0.41 OMR).  I could not stop thinking how cheap the bananas were, as it would have costed $12/kilo in Australia.

We arrived at Suleiman’s home, and were welcomed by his father, mom and his siblings, (younger sister and 2 younger brothers). Their modest guest room was set up with traditional furniture, an Arabian rug and cushions against the walls, ornate accessories and the typical wall furnishing, a photo frame of the Sultan. Suleiman’s father gave me a local remedy to ease the stinging pain from my cuts and bruises.  It was locally made from the ‘Alcua’ tree, extracted oil from the fruit.

His sister laid a thin disposable plastic mat on the floor to place all the foods. Fruits served as a starter. Suleiman’s mother and father joined us. They also offered me fresh dates and a local seasonal fruit ‘bot’ (similar shape to a mini grapes, but only grows in the dry mountains) along with an Omani coffee. After minutes of good conversation, the main course was served composed of  ‘biryani’ rice, chicken, vegetable ‘masala’ and salad. This time, seated with us was his younger sister. I observed how Suleiman took a portion of each to place on the mat with the aid of his right fingers. The rest of the time, I managed to help myself.

Interior in of the Jabrin Castle guest rooms, characterised with a fine decorated ceiling

After lunch we drove to our last stop for the day, the Jabrin Castle, which I considered as the finest of all. The castle has restored the best of Omani characteristics as indicated with its finely decorated ceiling akin to the Grand Mosque with intricate flower patterns. Guest rooms are uniquely designed. It also has a huge collection of Arabic books. The kitchen keeps a massive pot, big enough to fit a whole camel. It’s a three-story level building, excluding the basement. The basement is where dates’ room was located.

By 3.30 pm, we arrived at our final destination, Nizwa.Where I spent the night. I checked in at the Golden Tulip Hotel, which is located outside the centre of town. The hotel is an ideal location for events/convention. The reception staff was great and reminded us the room inclusions and what time the meals start and end. Excellent buffet dinner was served at the hotel restaurant.  I had a smile on my face as they served sweets, other  than the traditional fresh dates or fruits. If you fancy a taste of ‘shisha’ – the hotel lobby has this ready to serve or at a nearby restaurants.

If you are turtle-lovers and are interested to hearing about their nesting process, stay tuned as I will be covering this interesting adventure in tomorrow’s article.

In this article, I am delighted to feature Sultanate of Oman Tourism, the gracious sponsor of my visit to Oman. To discover Oman and view a list of major wholesalers in Australia and New Zealand, visit tourismoman.com.au

© 2012 by Michelle Riel, retains sole copyright to her contributions to all the contents of this site.

We arrived at the Grand Mosque at 9 am. The mosque was definitely awe-inspiring.  It was decorated with beautiful chandeliers, the largest size being in the centre of the main prayer hall.  The floor covered with a beautifully designed carpet covering on the entire floors believed to have taken several years and more than 500 weavers to finish the entire piece.  The workmanship is impeccable.

After the mosque visit, I just couldn’t stand the heat that I had to change attire to comfortably continue my long day activity. Our next stop was the well-restored Nakhal Fort.  Definitely one of the spectacular Forts I have seen. The Fort is located at the edge of the mountains of Jabal Akhdar and overlooks a vast of palm orchards. We also visited the hot springs, Ain Al Thuwwarah, which is close by the Fort and is frequented by many locals, and popular on weekends/holidays and wintertime.

Bilad Sayt Village

After having lunch in Nakhal town, we continued driving towards the cliff of Jabel Shams (Mountain of the Sun). Thirty minutes later we passed through a scenic mountain route followed, by a road running
along dry wadis of Wadi Bani Awaf.  After several miles we saw a junction with the sign of Bilad Sayt.  The village of Bilad Sayt has a population with most residents working outside the village. The village is a large oasis at the foot of Jabel Shams. Past the side road to Bilad Sayt is a narrow canyon that leads to Haat, a village with a population of 200 people. Part of the roads was originally mountains that have been cut. During the olden times, donkeys were the only means of transportation.

We continued following the ridge until we reach the pass of Sharaf Alamain, where a new hotel is being built and is overlooking Al Hamra town. From here, to our final destination, Jabel Shams was a good hour. When we got there it was very timely for us to capture a photo shoot of the stunning view of the Grand Canyon. After taking some good photos, we quickly drove to the Resort Camp of Jabel Shams.

Jabel Shams Resort is a camp type lodging. It was originally a tent campsite that turned into a modern camp lodging. It houses a mixed of brick cabin (with private bathroom) and tent lodging (no private toilet), which are both equipped with proper beds.  Guests have the option to bring their own cooking equipment, should they opt to prepare their own food over eating at the restaurant.  The temperature was around 30ºC when we got there, and towards the evening it went down to 22ºC, a perfect weather to sit in the outdoor area of the camp’s restaurant for an evening meal.  I enjoyed the pacific ambiance of the mountain and the cooler temperature it brings.

Jabel Shams is a perfect spot for those who enjoy trekking and climbing (via ferrata – cable) to places like the snake canyon.  It is also a perfect place for hiking, mountain biking, and abseiling.  And for your information, most of these activities are not conducted during summer periods.

Omanis are known to be hospitable and I was fortunate to not just visit an Omani house but also eat with an Omani family. I am delighted to share this experience in my Day 3 article.

In this article, I am proud to feature Sultanate of Oman Tourism, the gracious sponsor of my visit to Oman. To discover Oman and view a list of major wholesalers in Australia and New Zealand, visit  www.tourismoman.com.au

© 2012 by Michelle Riel, retains sole copyright to her contributions to all the contents of this site.

In this article, I am proud to feature Sultanate of Oman Tourism, the gracious sponsor of my visit in Oman. To discover Oman and view list of major wholesalers in Australia and New Zealand, visit www.tourismoman.com.au.

I landed at the Muscat International Airport on Sunday, 5 June at around 5 am via the Royal Jordanian flight RJ 600. Suleiman Al-Qassabi, the local appointed tour guide welcomed me at the arrival hall with a sign bearing my name‘Welcome Ms Michelle Riel’.  After picking up my luggage, Suleiman drove me to the City Seasons Hotel. The staff of the hotel and the comfortable ambiance made it my refuge during my entire stay in the city.  I was pleased to hear that my room was ready for an early check in.  Upon checking in, I was even more pleased upon learning that I had been given a free upgrade to a penthouse.  Ahmed Al Raisi, Rooms Division Manager, graciously escorted me to the Mezzanine level of the hotel for an early breakfast.

After taking a good power nap, Suleiman picked me up at 3 pm to take me to a city tour of Muscat, the capital city.  The tour included visits to the Walled City of Old Muscat. Old Muscat offers a range of opportunities for sightseeing, which include the Sultan Qaboos Palace and its well-maintained surrounding grand quarters. We also visited Bait Al Zubair Museum, which houses a collection of thousands of Omani artifacts, jewelry, costumes, weapons, furniture and many more assembled by the Al Zubair family. These collections truly reflect the rich cultural heritage and unique identity of Oman. The museum has a gift shop located at the entrance door. Old Muscat can definitely be explored on foot in less than a day.

Our next stop was at Mutrah Souq. I noticed the thermometer reading in front of Mutra Souq, along Al Bahri Road, which was at 44ºC. The Mutrah Souq, one of the well known and oldest marketplaces in the Arab world, offers a labyrinth and mystifying array of shops, selling massive choices of items from jewelry in threads of gold and silver, to gorgeous textiles and clothes, all at a bargain price.  The adjacent Mutrah Street and alleyway of shops were also worth a visit.  Grabbing my attention most was the infinite range of frankincense incense sticks and products available on sale.   What I loved the most was the fact that I had the time to explore the area with minimal encounters of annoying and overly aggressive merchants.  During the summer season, fewer tourists are around and the best time to do a leisurely stroll.

As the temperature dropped off, we took advantage of the much cooler late afternoon by walking along the Muscat port to witness some of the best sunset shots unfolding before my eyes.  It is apparent at times the Sultan’s Yacht is seen anchored at the port.  We took a break to enjoy the taste of traditional Omani coffee at a local cafe looking over the harbour and the beautiful view of the port.

I ended up my first day to savour and enjoy my first Omani meal at a local restaurant, Bin Ateeq, which is two blocks away from the hotel and a block away from the Zawawi Mosque, one of the city’s numerous mosques.  The atmosphere of the restaurant is very interesting and unique. Patrons are sectioned off into different rooms or partitions, allowing for an intimate setting.  Each room was furnished with a TV set, overlaying an Arabian rug and traditional cushions against the walls.  There was washroom to wash your hands before and after meal.  Dinner for the night included ‘Biryani’rice, fish, chicken, mixed salad, Omani bread and a dip, all served in a massive plate and minimal cutleries.  The plate and floor served as table and chairs.  Patrons eat with their fingers – definitely a skill that requires mastering. The food was presented authentic and served relatively timely.  The service was excellent – servers were very nice and attentive.  This was definitely a good treat to end the day.

In the next 4 business days, I will be issuing 4 more articles covering the remaining 4 full days of my Omani Adventure.  Day 2 of my adventure will be featured in the next article.

© 2012 by Michelle Riel, retains sole copyright to her contributions to all the contents of this site.

A memory of my seven hours of walking in the dusty roads and hills of Petra, Jordan

The murky political situation in the region did not stop me from visiting Petra. This wasn’t part of my original plan, until I realized after seeing Machu Pichu that Petra holds the key to my long-standing lifetime dream.  I still remember a conversation and consultation I had with my best friend if this trip can be done, and dealt with another ticket reissue.  ‘Sure you can Mich!’ she claimed.

I flew to Amman, the capital of Jordan via Royal Jordanian flight RJ 166, a 60-seater Embraer and so far the best airline of my choice. In the economy class, the lovely and smiling crews offer a 3-meal option (beef, chicken and fish) for any flight over 2 hours. This is akin to a long haul meal option served by other airlines.

Movenpick Hotel was my temporary refuge and made my visit more memorable when I was told upon check in that I have been upgraded to a junior suite.  It certainly put a smile on my face, especially after the 3-hour drive from Amman Queen Alia International Airport.  It wasn’t a scenic drive but as we were approaching to the hotel, a beautiful sunset welcomed my arrival.

After a sumptuous breakfast on the glorious day of Thursday, 2 June, I was so anxious to get out of the hotel.  I was like a little child, feeling excited of what the day brings to me. I left the hotel room at 10 am.

Petra entrance gate was only a 3-minute walk from the hotel.  After a 10-minute walk from the gate, the first scenes that I saw were the rock-cut monuments of Obelisk Tomb and Bab el-Siq Triclinium.  A 7-minute walk later, I saw a signage that eventually directed me to the admirable passage of the Siq (the shaft). I continued walking and admiring the endless scenes of massive size and incredible rock formations in multiple colours.  Soon enough, I sighted a shadow of the façade of Al-Khazna (The Treasury). Al-Khazna, is a rose-pink colored single block of rock and the most impressive rock monument I have ever seen.

I spotted a solo traveler, Constance, whom I kindly asked to take pictures of me. Constance is a Zimbabwean-American, who is currently working in Dubai.  Interestingly after few minutes of conversation, we started to share our stories of how we ended in Petra.  I was surprised of the decision she made of arranging and booking her travel, 6 hours prior to her flight. Being spontaneous and living in the moment is really is a wonderful thing.

We walked together to explore more of the historical site and both dealt with the insistent Bedouin locals inviting us to ride on the donkey. ‘Hello lady, donkey to the Monastery, special price for you.’ ‘No thank you’ I repeatedly replied.  Finally they gave up on us with an ending remark in their English way: ‘Think about, my name is Mohamed, come see me later.’ 

Constance and I continued with our stroll until we got to the Basin Restaurant for a sumptuous buffet lunch for 17 JD.  At the restaurant, we met another solo traveler, Richard, who is also a US resident but working abroad.  Richard became my new travel buddy, as Constance had to leave to return back to Amman.

After sharing my goal for the day with Richard, he managed to twist my arms to walk 850 steps uphill to see the summit of the park, The Monastery.  He took over my camera where he was able to capture every little move and steps I made along the way.

The option of embarking on a donkey ride, or commonly called by the Bedouin locals as ‘Petra’s air-conditioned Cadillac,’ was a common offering to tourists.  Bedouin kids were everywhere. I had a few encounters along the way like cute little Mariana, a 7 year old Bedouin kid dressed in her modern dress, shoeless, and clubby-shaped little feet covered with dust.  She kept speaking in some foreign language and at the same time pulling my bracelet saying ‘give me give me’ and then ran away as soon as she saw her little friend.

Along the way we got to chat with few tourists who encouraged us to keep going – ‘its worth it, once you get up there.’ At 3.30 pm we finally made it to the summit of the park, Al Deir (The Monastery). To reach there we had to makemultiple stops for a drink and ice cream treat from adamant vendors. We were definitely blown away by the scene. It was definitely more dramatic and bigger than The Treasury.  Richard was right; it is not about the number of steps, but the end of the quest.

Opposite from the monument was a coffee shop, where we took some moment to relax and enjoy the view of The Monastery.  Here I met Gabriel from UK, who is studying in Amman, along with her friend.  As a resident international student of Jordan, Gabriel only had to pay 1JD for the entrance fee.  At 4.30 pm, we all decided to start walking back in time for the happy hour from 6-7pm.

Along the way we met another beautiful and innocent looking Bedouin kid, Tama. She has a noticeable mark of scars on her face; evident of the hardships she went through. Tama was wearing a long modest traditional black dress that complemented her gorgeous long hair. I must admit that I am a softy when it comes to beautiful kids. We enjoyed chatting with her. She has a good command of the English language, and surely speaks other languages.  She handed me both her hands and said ‘Come I take you to see the lion and fish’ as she pointed the way.  We climbed up together to get to the passage look out.  We followed her and true enough, we witnessed another hidden area of excavated Petra lying behind another rock:  a figure of the lion and fish curved on the façade of the rock- cut monument.

We then walked back to the pathway where her donkey was waiting. I had the chance to ride the donkey for a photo shoot. And then the funny and suspicious encounter began.  Surprisingly, as I was pulling out my wallet to give her a tip she said ‘Lady no money.’  ‘Okay what can I offer you instead’ I insisted.  ‘Something from your country’ she replied.  I had nothing else but a plastic whistle that I bought from Ecuador.  I pulled it out from my wallet and showed to her how it worked.  At that time, I felt I should give her some tip but she continued to refuse. Instead, she suggested going with her to visit her village. She was a real charmer, and whilst it might sound interesting to do, my immediate gut feeling was to decline her gracious invitation.  When I expressed to her that I couldn’t she then suggested that she needed to get a pair of new shoes. I handed her 5 JD but she explained to me that the shoes costs 10 JD.  I told her to keep the note and start saving until she has enough to afford to buy the pair of shoes.  She then took the note graciously.

As we continued walking, she asked for another favour, this time she wanted an ice cream. That was the breaking moment that I decided to ignore her. And then she started getting into a tantrum and even attempted to return the 5 JD notes I gave to her as well as  the plastic whistle. We continued to ignore her. Suddenly, she ran ahead of us and found a wooden box along the way and acted to place the money on the bench. ‘Lady I don’t want your money,’ and left it on the bench and walked away. As we continued walking and ignoring her, she finally gave up and walked away with the money.

By then, it was already 6 pm, and we still had a good hour to reach the hotel. We were convinced to skip the happy hour.  The last 30 minutes walk to the hotel was the challenging one but it was the stiff drink calling out that pushed me to keep going.  At this time the park pathway was being set up with candles for an evening Petra experience.  At 7.30 pm I made it to the hotel. It was a long 9 hours and 30 minutes day out. I was totally exhausted but the breathtaking memories of that day; the 508 photos and the interesting encounters with the Bedouin kids wrapped up the daylong activity.

On Friday, 3 June at 2 pm I was ready to endure another long drive to Amman Marriott for an overnight stay.  Ibrahim, the driver, spoke better English and managed to negotiate a good price for the scheduled day tour I planned to Jerash and the Dead Sea for the following day.  As a reminder, always shop around for transfers to/from Petra as I was surprised to find out that Movenpick was able to offer a better price.

Security is a big deal in Jordan.  Upon arrival at the hotel, it was a requirement that luggage have to go through the security machine before entering the lobby.  Even inside the park of Petra, security police quarters are widely visible and available so security and safety is highly upheld in this country.

Bassam picked me up at Marriott Hotel at 9 am on Saturday, 4 June, for the scheduled day tour. After a 45-minute drive, we reached our first stop, Jerash, the second most visited ancient Roman ruins in Jordan.  Here you can spend a good hour or 2 to see the entire quarters and its impressive lines of columns.

By 1 pm, we arrived at Amman Tourist Beach and had a buffet lunch and a quick dip to the Dead Sea.  Having been to the Israel side of the Dead Sea, the Jordan side is much more scenic and easily accessible to the hotels’ zone offering a number of luxurious 5-star hotels to choose from.

At 10.30 pm I was back to my secondary home, the airport. After a few hours of wait, my flight was ready to take off to my 40th flight bound for Oman, a Royal land with full of surprises.

© 2012 by Michelle Riel, retains sole copyright to her contributions to all the contents of this site.

Despite of my friends’ constant reminders that it is not advisable for a woman to travel alone in a country like Turkey, I still took this opportunity to visit. Showing my determination, I only finalized my travel arrangements a day before my actual trip with the help of Tempo Holidays. For this trip, I pre-arranged all my airport transfers and hotels to minimize unfortunate annoyances. This gave me the courage to pack and take on another adventure.
Hotel Evsen was my hub in Istanbul.  The hotel was located in the prime spot nearby Sultanahmet, which is a short walking distance to a number of the major tourist attractions of the city. The Hotel Manager and the friendly front desk staff personally welcomed me. Melis, one of the staff, assisted my check in process with a welcome treat composed of cold cherry juice and some Turkish cookies.  Rooms at Hotel Evsen were slightly small, but clean and comfortable.

A week or so is an ideal length of time to explore Istanbul. But on this trip, I didn’t have that much time and had to prioritise what to see in Istanbul and other parts of the country.  I made a list of what to do and see in Istanbul. My first list was a stroll to the historical region of Sultanahmet.

I had my first Turkish cuisine on Tuesday, 26 May.  After a quick sight and dealing with the hustle and bustle of the vibrant historical town, I had a quick bite at the Tarihi Sultanahmet Koftecisi (Historical Sultan Meatballs) for a taste of their famous ‘Selim Usta’ dish, (meatballs with mixed salad).  It was a simple meal but tastefully good and light in the pocket.

On Wednesday, 26 May, after a nice breakfast at the hotel, I visited Topkapi Palace, Aside for the treasured relics, the palace also houses exquisite and precious gem collections, which were believed to be worn by the sultans.  It was a crazy day, as there were school kids doing an excursion and joining the queue of tourist to visit the Palace.

After the Palace visit, I went back to the hotel to pack, ready to get out of Istanbul. When I checked out, Melis handed me an origami bird, which she made herself. What a lovely gift.  By mid afternoon I arrived at Kayseri Airport and was transferred to a 3-star Cappadocia Palace Hotel in the area of Urgup in the region of Coppadocia.

The Hotel Manager met me to relay me good news. They have moved me to their new hotel, the MDC Hotel – Michelle Discovery Caves. He told me that it was my lucky day as MDC Hotel is their new 5-star hotel.  The hotel was absolutely stunning, located in a historical site, which used to be a textile factory.  The moment I walked into the reception desk, the friendly and welcoming Hotel Manager, Murat, welcomed me with a glass of wine.  He must have thought I needed it!  Within 10 minutes I was in the comfort of my gorgeous room equipped with a Jacuzzi and all amenities of a luxurious lodging.  The most exciting part was I got to have a nice bath after months of traveling. Aside from the rooms carved out of a rock believed to be over 200 years old, different traditional features, like the old winery and the stables, authenticate each room.  However, the winning feature of the hotel is their friendly staff, that provides remarkably friendly services, e.g. spend time to sit and chat with you and share a cup of traditional Turkish tea or a glass of wine.  Murat’s dedication to his job shined through at all times. It came out naturally.  For more information about the hotel, go to www.mdchotelurgup.com.

There is no point of visiting Cappodocia and missing the hot air balloon flight over the amazing and peculiar fairy chimneys rock formations and the valleys of the region.  On Friday 27 May, I started my day at 4 am to marvel the breathtaking landscapes and the valleys of the Cappodocia region via the traditional Champagne Hot Air Balloon flight.  The morning started with a slight breakfast, a briefing/orientation about the activity and eventually an opportunity to watch air balloons getting ready to take off.  The experience was magical as we let the world below drift away in exhilaration of the Friday morning-fresh country air.

After a nice breakfast at hotel, I explored the valleys in the traditional guided tour where I had the opportunity to witness the dramatic landscapes of the fairy chimneys throughout the region. The tour included a lunch and visits to the Pottery and Carpet Factory.

On Sunday, 28 May, I took a flight to Denizili via Istanbul on Turkish Airlines to visit Pamukkale. From Denizili Airport to Pamukkale, the most economical way is through a combined regular bus service (a 50 minute travel) and mini van transfer (a 10-minute travel). The total transport support costs 22TL. Thanks to Murat of MDC who arranged the transfers for me by contacting his local contact. From the regular bus services, I was dropped off in one of the stops for a transfer service via a mini van to take me to Traverten Hotel. Traverten Hotel is a two-star hotel, centrally located, with friendly and helpful staff.

I only had one full day spared to do the tour of Pamukkale. To make life easier and efficient, I decided to book a guided tour. The day-tour included a visit to the main attractions of this region and the natural thermal travertine pool terraces, which according to my guide was formed from a catastrophic earthquake. Swimming and bathing in the pool terraces, and ducking under one of the mini waterfalls are some of the unique experiences that are available to your enjoyment.  By merely walking around the pool terraces in bare foot was already a heavenly experience. It is without doubt that the natural thermal pools are trademarks of Turkish tourism.  Another sight worth visiting are the ruins of the ancient quarter of Hierapolis, conveniently located on the hillside of the thermal pools.

By midday 30 May, I flew back to Istanbul.  It was great to be back at Evsen Hotel. And being around with familiar faces, like Melis, who spent time with me to explore Istanbul at nighttime was very comforting.  It’s always an amazing and a less hassle experience when you are in the company of others.

On the first night, Melis got me to experience catching the local and tunnel trams.  Our first stop was the Galata Tower, one of the oldest towers of the world where you can enjoy a great view of Istanbul from a 360º angle.  Food was our next stop at the Hamdi Restaurant, which offers a panoramic view of the port and followed by a taste of ‘Mado’ sticky ice cream.

The highlight of the night was a visit to Kadinlar Kahuesi, a women’s café in the modern town of Taksim, a great spot for nightlife lovers.  Here you find an array of ladies’ cafes tucked along the side streets. The place is frequented mainly by women and known for its traditional Turkish coffee cup and fortune telling.  Remziye read my fortune in Turkish. She scribbled notes, numbers etc in her own language after which Melis translated them for me.  We shared giggles and laughter as Melis relayed to me the information.  I guess I left with no choice but to wait for my predicted fortune, which was promising.  We ended the night foot tour by walking along the vibrant French Street.

Tuesday, 31 May, was my last full day in the historical city of Istanbul.  I spent the day by visiting a lot of interesting places. These included a visit to Aya Sofya (St Sophia), the Basilica Cistern, and an afternoon tour to Bosphorus  via boat to cruise between the 2 continents, Europe and Asia. The half-day tour via Cable Car & Bosphorus on Boat costs EUR35. This  included a cable car ride from Pierre Loti Hill, which offers a spectacular view of Golden Horn and the city.

The magnificent Aya Sofya is considered to be the oldest standing church in Istanbul and frequented by thousands of international visitors each year.  The domes in the interior main area were the most impressive. The lines of beautifully built columns added interests. The Basilica Cistern or also known as the ‘Sunken Palace’ was out of this world, located beneath the city of Istanbul. It can be a little spooky inside but worth a visit.

By 6 pm, I met up with Melis for a snap visit to the labyrinth paths, which leads to thousands of shops in the Grand Bazaar (Covered Market). Here, you will find almost everything.  My favorite, however, was the visit to the colorful and vibrant Spice Bazaar(Egyptian Market) where I got to taste some local traditional ‘lokum’ – Turkish delights.

After a traditional ‘meze’ dinner, my last night was culminated with a visit to the Eminönü ferry dock, just close by from my hotel. We sat at one of the Boat Restaurants where you can buy some grilled fish sandwich.  Melis and I had a traditional Turkish ‘cay’ (tea) on one of their traditional miniature plastic tables and chairs whilst watching the world goes by.  It was a busy night: vendors setting up their merchandises on the walkway and under the bridge others were rushing home to catch their ferry and the rest were enjoying the night stroll.

From experience it is safe to travel solo in Turkey but like in any other places, you must always take extra precautions combined with a good common sense. It is common to be hassled by store vendors. ‘Hajir Tesekkürler’ is the magic word, which literally means no thank you, though not commonly used among the Turks.  To Melis,  I want to say my heartfelt ‘Tesekkürler’ for the crash Turkish language course. But most of all for sharing your time with me to experience what locals do.

Off to one of the 7 New Wonders of the World, my pride and joy and the true reason why I decided to visit part of this

The next article is all about my 9 hours and 30 minutes exploration of Petra.

© 2012 by Michelle Riel, retains sole copyright to her contributions to all the contents of this site.world.