One Way Ticket to the Devil’s Mine
“An adventure is an affair; taking a risk from the norm, lose sight from all familiar comfort, and discover new things and new ways to bring an undeniable pleasure in a unique and rewarding discovery, a new vigor to the mind. ” My adventure in Bolivia was indeed an affair to remember.
On Monday, 7th of February, as I exited the Peruvian border to start my Bolivian adventure I found out that I have over stayed for 3 days. I inadvertently overlooked my immigration slip thinking that I could stay up to 90 days after I extended my volunteer program from 2 weeks to 4 weeks. Fee for this mistake was USD 15. Lesson learned: never assume, always check your immigration card on the maximum allowable stay in the country you are visiting.
Crossing a border and stepping into a new country can be an exciting feeling, but it can also be a discouraging experience especially if you deal with luggage checks, interrogations and language issues. But processing through the Peruvian and Bolivian customs was relatively pretty easy. Upon completion of my paper work, I made sure to check and see if I have received a stamp in my passport and the number of days that I am allowed to stay, as I don’t want to find myself caught in a bit of trouble again. I passed through the immigration without our luggage being checked, walked for about 200 metres and finally made it to the Bolivian soil. I then hopped into a taxi with 2 other locals at 4 Bolivianos each (exchange rate: 1 AUD = 6.7 Bolivianos) to head down to the main road of Copacabana town.
Copacabana Cathedral of Bolivia
We finally reached Copacabana, the most important center of the Titicaca Lake. The town is pretty safe and laidback. We billeted at Hostal Sonia, which is located behind the Cathedral. Hostel Hosnia was relatively cheap compared to the other local hotels nearby. We were able to get a clean room with private bathroom for just 30 Bolivianos each – a price hard to beat! The staff was very friendly and helpful.
Our first activity of the day was to attend an evening mass service at the adjoining chapel of the Vergen de Candelaria (found on the left facing the main Copacabana Cathedral). In front of the chapel was a sculpture of the beautiful Virgin of Copacabana. The sculpture is made in wood by a native artist and believed to be miraculous. The white-painted Copacabana Cathedral is well known for car-blessing ceremonies (La Benedicion de Movilidades). During the ceremony, priests bless the vehicle for a safe journey home. This is one of the events that shouldn’t be missed by travellers.
We continued exploring the town and walked along Av. 6 de Agosto towards the Lake. When we crossed over 16 De Julio there were rows of charming restaurants, each proudly highlight their menus and specialty. So much choice to make but the one that enticed us most was Pueblo Viejo, a cozy little restaurant specializing baked trout. The trout was apparently exceptionally tasty and fresh.
We started our day on Tuesday, 8th of February, early and woke up in a cold rainy morning. The rain did not stop us from what we have planned for the day. After having the best lemon pie for breakfast at Copacabana Restaurant, which is located towards the end of Av. 6 de Agosto, we ran into an agency and got ourselves a bus ticket for La Paz and a day tour to Isla del Sol (that sits on the Bolivian side). The tour fee was a real bargain, costing us only 45 Bolivianos, including the bus ticket to La Paz.
‘Titicaca Tours’ serviced the tour. The package included a 2-hour boat ride to Challampampa beach side, which is the northern part of the island, and believed to be birthplace of the Sun. I spent the first few minutes of my 2 hours at the Gold Museum (Museo del Oro) after which I explored the island’s ruins and most spectacular scenic trail. Our boat then departed to continue the tour to Yumani, the southern part of the island. By the time we reached the place, we only had ample time to climb up the Inca Stairway to visit The Fountain of the Inca and try the sacred water. Make sure to bring a sunscreen or sun block, as the sun can be extremely strong. It was an exhausting yet fun day for all of us.
Hostel Sonia provided us a free transfer to the bus terminal in time for us to have a quick dinner before boarding the bus at 6.30pm bound for La Paz. The bus, full of tourists, left Copacabana at 6.45pm. Halfway to La Paz, we had to get off from the bus to take a ferry. To ensure you return to the correct bus, it is important that you take note of the bus plate number. When we docked to the other side of the island, we had the opportunity to buy some snacks at the mini markets. By the way, try the sizzling ‘sausage burger’ at the sidewalk stall.
At 8.30pm, the bus had to stop to accommodate 2 Bolivian Police Swats to conduct a random narcotic check. We were all asked to pull out our ID or passports. After 10 minutes they got off from the bus. As we approached the city of La Paz we were welcomed by the persisting seasonal rain and also started noticing the terrible dark and ugly roads and buildings.
It was close to 10.00pm, in the midst of heavy rains, when we arrived to La Paz. La Paz is believed to be the highest capital city (in terms of altitude) in the world. We were fortunate that a trusting young taxi driver, Javier, was there to save us from getting wet from the rain. He drove us first to Loki Hostel and then to Hotel Fuentes. It all brought us to a surprise that in a supposed low season none of them had any rooms available. He finally found one by checking through his radio contact. Hotel Condeza, a 2-star hotel located on Diagonal Juan XXII No. 190.Muchos gracias Javier!
We started our day on Wednesday, 9th of February, with a continental breakfast at Bella Vista Restaurant which located on the top floor of Hotel Condeza, and a beautiful view of La Paz city At 12.00 pm we started exploring the city of La Paz by foot. We walked through the busiest streets of textile, hardware, home goods, food, fish markets and sidewalk stores. It was an akin to a massive outdoor bazaar – vibrant, interesting and colorful! From there, we visited the San Francisco Museum, which is a must to see. Make sure to go up to the tower to enjoy the stunning panoramic view of the city of La Paz.
At 2.00pm it was time to treat us with a delectable Indian curry lunch for 35 Bolivianos at The Star of India located on Calle Cochabamba No.170. For the price, it included a vegetable soup and dessert made of local seeds mixed with pieces of grains and coffee seed. It was absolutely divine! From here, we went for another 15minutes up hill walk to Murillo Square and continued on to Calle Jaen – a charming colonial cobbled street where you will also find El Museo Casa de Murillo – House of Murillo. It was certainly worth a visit for 4 Bolivianos, which included 2 other museums: El Museo Costumbrista Juan de Vargas – culture and history of Bolivia and El Museo de Metales Preciosos – precious metals (gold).
While in La Paz you should not leave the city without seeing the wonders of the Witches Market where you will find some dried llama fetus. Majority of Bolivian families would place the fetuses under the foundations of their houses to protect their abodes and bring them luck. I would have dared to get one, if I only had a space for it in my luggage!
The last stop was the interesting Coca Museum where I culminated with a coca cake and a cup of tea before heading back to our hotel in preparation for our departure at 8.30pm for Potosi. Fare to Potosi from La Paz via semi cama is 80Bs. We finally arrived Potosi, after a ten-hour ride on Thursday, 10th of February.
Have you ever had that “feeling of dislike” to a new place? Whilst I felt the thin air, I did not feel the good energy about the place the moment I got off the bus. To be honest, it was “a hate at first sight.” To start the ordeal, we had encountered the most opportunist taxi driver. I had 20Bs note and my taxi-shared fare was meant to be 5Bs but since he claimed he had no change, I only got 8Bs back. After the dodgy taxi driver, an unfriendly staff at Hostel de Compania Jesus welcomed us. The centrally located hostel was set in a nice colonial building, which was once a monastery. This was our hub for our day stay in Potosi.
After 8am breakfast we booked ourselves for a Mine Tour at ‘Koala Tours’, one of the oldest tour agencies, located at Calle Ayacucho No.5. Our first stop was at a nearby warehouse where we geared up in our mining outfit. A dedicated tour guide and an assistant were assigned to a group of 6. Ronald was our dedicated tour guide. He was once a miner and had a good sense of humor.
From the charming and laidback town of Copacabana, my real Bolivian adventure started as we head to the mines of Cerro Rico, the Miner Market. The excitement started at the market when he had our briefing and a demonstration on the use of dynamites. We also had the chance to try a drop of Alcohol Potable. We bought 2 large bottles of soda, bag of coca leaves, and dynamite kits as gifts for the miners. The coca leaves are vital part for the miners and considered the most important gear. It serves as their main energizer in addition to the dose of tolerance needed to sustain their everyday work.
After a quick visit at the Ore Mill (refinery plant), the climax of the tour took place as we went through the innermost part of the Devil’s Mine. During the first 10 minutes of the tour we paid tribute to the “Statue of Tio, a devil like figure that miners believe to be in charge and responsible to what occurs in the mines. When we hit the first level, only 4 of us stayed and the other 2 decided to go back with the tour guide assistant.
Whilst we managed to descend via a circular-narrow and deep hole down to the next level, there was a moment that I had leg cramps, which slowed me down for few seconds. Then we continued through the narrow entrance. In addition to the sticky muddy tunnel, the abundance of dusts that obviously carry a breath of heavy dose of toxic chemicals was also evident.
We then passed through another deeper level with the aid of ladders and strenuous steps. It became harder when Ronald warned us “don’t push hard onto the rocks.” We took some breaks every now and then to catch on our panting breath and had an occasional gulp of drinking water. Most of the times we would walk faster when miners with their chunk of coca leaves in their cheeks are passing through pushing an empty 2 tons of wagon trucks. We had to make sure we move away from the track in time, as they will not stop for us. Some ceilings and walls were singly held by few pieces of wood put together swiftly. There was a time that a rock fell in front of my face.
The agonizing yet fun adventure continued when we had to crawl through the dirt and pieces of rocks whilst I held my camera tightly hidden under the hired waterproof mining jacket. But when we got to the stack of wood, I had to crawl up hill and told my self that this is the end of my strength. I had to get the tour guide to pull me up to get to the top.
Finally, when we reached 15 minutes away from the end of the tunnel, the track became wider and eventually started feeling the “fresh air”. At exactly 1pm, we made it out safe and sound from one the mines of the Cerro Rico.
It was absolutely not the haven for asthmatics and claustrophobics sufferers. It was an exhausting adventure but I felt good that I made it from start to end. I have great respect for the miners of what they go through everyday, after experiencing the two hours of the mine tour. Most of the miners started working in the mines at an early age, working between 8-12 hours, to make a living to support their family. Not an easy job at all compared to sitting behind an office desk on a comfy office chair.
At 2.30pm, after the most needed shower, I was anxious to get out of Potosi for a 7pm overnight bus as I look forward to seeing the most fascinating sights of Bolivia, the Salar de Uyuni, the remnants of true science. And at 6.15pm, in the midst of the afternoon seasonal rain, we were very pleased to have left the hostel in a taxi and off to the Bus Terminal.
© 2012 by Michelle Riel, retains sole copyright to her contributions to all the contents of this site.
