Argentina, just the way I like it – medium rare!
Landing in Recoleta, Buenos Aires, popularly known for the Recoleta Cemetery, as it’s prime attraction, was indeed a peculiar shift of moment after enjoying the comfort and heaven-like bed on flight LA 2429.
It was on Saturday, 26th of February that I was welcomed with a friendly smile by Matias, the local ground representative of Tempo Holidays in Buenos Aires. One-year multiple entry tourist visa to Argentina is USD 100. Only Canadian and US citizens have the privilege to pay at the time of their entry in Argentina. Immigration and custom clearance were a reasonably smooth processes. One thing I noticed was that they do not even bother collecting the completed separate Custom Declaration form when exiting the terminal.
My travel buddy for this trip was my friend Jo Velasco from Sydney. I met Jo for a short three hours before I left Australia. During our stay in Buenos Aires we stayed at the Dazzler Suites, a room with a great view of the Recoleta Cemetery. Frequented by many tourists, the Recoleta Cemetery is not only known for its architectonical styles but also because many influential people and leaders of the Argentinean history are buried here, including the famous Evita Perone. Located in a prime location, this brand new spacious and modern hotel also has a mini-kitchen. It is well equipped and clean, combined with a friendly staff. Indeed, shortly after we settled in, Matias went through our itinerary and recommended places for sight seeing and restaurants to eat – that is service!
The following day, Sunday, 27th of February, was a scheduled three-hour city tour. Our first stop was the famous Recoleta Cemetery for up-close visit. After exploring the cemetery, in one phone call by Matias, our designated driver Hugo picked us up at the cemetery to continue the tour. Palermo being the first sight visits is a rich residential area where embassies and museums are mostly located. We then continued towards Av del Libertad, then to Avenida Alvear, the Rodeo Drive of Buenos Aires. We continued driving along Avenida 9 de Julio, the supposedly widest avenue in the world measuring approximately 140 metres wide.
The “Avenida-tour” was followed by a visit to the historical Plaza de Mayo, which is the ground of many political activities in Buenos Aires, and then to Puerto Madero, the old Port waterfront. The highlight of the day tour was the visit to the most picturesque and vibrant neighborhood in Buenos Aires, La Boca. For me it is akin to the New Orleans French quarter. The popular Sunday destination is the famous San Telmo market and fair along Defensa Calle. San Telmo features an endless stall and array of selections of antiques, crafts, and handicrafts. We were also lucky to have been given the chance to check out the La Recoleta Sunday market before we headed back to our hotel. A Freddo ice cream treat was definitely a nice way to end the day. Although someone prompted us to check Volta, meant to be the best quality ice cream in town. Make sure to go on a Tuesday to enjoy Volta’s special offer for the day.
They say that a night in Buenos Aires is incomplete without watching a Tango show but my craving for a juicy beef was more important than a tango performance. So we hopped into a taxi and instructed the driver to take us to La Cabrera, a first class Argentine Parilla (grill). The place was highly recommended by Matias. Monday, 28th of February, was the day to feed our insatiable appetite with the juicy and best quality steak in town, or perhaps in the world. The recommended choice was the ‘Ribeye Steak,’ the finest cuts of beef cooked traditionally, served with a variety of delicious appetizers and mini side plates complemented with a glass of Malbec. It was absolutely a mouth-watering steak. It was prepared, just the way I like it – medium rare!
We spent the rest of the afternoon strolling along the streets of Palermo’s boutique lines. We also had a trip to the nearest shopping centre, Alto Palermo, before going back to the hotel.
Tuesday, 1st of March, was our last day to see as much of Buenos Aires. The day started with a visit at the grand main opera house of the city, the French style Teatro Colon or Columbus Theatre – known as one of the five best concert halls in the world. The theater is absolutely stunning inside and equipped with state of the art acoustics that will surely make the theater experience unforgettable – definitely worth of a visit for 60ARS. We also visited the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo – The National Museum of Decorative Arts, an art museum in Buenos Aires which houses exquisite furnishings, tapestries, silverware, porcelain, ivory, paintings and sculptures.
We had our lunch at a prime rated Italian restaurant by Trip Advisor, Amici Miei located on Defensa 1072, Palermo. On a nice day, seating at the balcony, which overlooks the Plaza Dorrego, was the perfect spot to be. I must also mention the faultless service by our waiter. Orange juice was not on the menu but our waiter made his way to get Jo a freshly squeezed orange juice.
We chose not to see a tango show that night and decided to go to Milongas, thinking that it will offer us an authentic experience. It was not what we expected at Cofiteria Ideal. Perhaps we were the younger ones in the crowd. Milonga is a place where you can learn tango and actually do an impromptu tango show. After a snap judgment, we decided to take a walk towards the popular McDonalds quarter by the Av 9 de Julio where The Obelisk, a structure akin to Washington Monument is also located.
On Wednesday 2nd of March we boarded AR 2724 bound to Iquazu Falls on the Argentina side. The well-positioned Panoramic Hotel located on the hill was our home base for two nights. Panoramic Hotel, with its strategic location and fabulous view of the Iguazu and Parana Rivers was a good choice. It was indeed a hard decision as to which part of the Iguazu Falls is the best. Seeing both the Argentina and Brazil sides of the falls, on March 3 and 4, respectively, was the best decision we made. The Argentine side offers you the most up-close view of the falls and the Brazilian side spells the panoramic views. However, my best advice is to make sure you do the Gran Adventure for a boat ride under the falls. It was an astounding experience of a lifetime. Get ready to get wet and scream for ARS 222 (or USD55). Make sure you bring along a poncho when visiting the falls if you do not wish to get wet too much.
Having seen Victoria Falls and Niagara Falls, Iguazu Falls came the best of the three natural wonders of the world. I give Junior, our Tempo representative tour guide, the credit for being punctual at all times and for his graciousness, professionalism and patience. He knew the ins and outs of making sure we get the best spot, amongst hundreds of spectators, to capture the perfect photo shoots.
Aqva Restaurant was in fact our favourite spot for a late lunch while in Iguazu. Make sure you try their marinated sirloin steak with onion risotto and vegetable strudel. The staff was also very attentive and friendly.
On Friday, 4th of March we left Panoramic Hotel and went through the hassle free border crossing from Argentina to Brazil. It was the fastest and best ever-guided border-crossing service I have ever experienced. After few minutes, we crossed the Tranquedo Neves Bridge, which joins the Argentina and Brazil borders over the Iguassu River. In two minutes we landed in Brazil as we crossed the Green/Yellow paint part of the bridge, which obviously separates the Blue/White paint from the Argentina side. What was great was Jo and I did not go through the hassle of getting on and off from the car.
Tourists frequently visit the Brazil side of the Falls. There are obviously more hotels to choose from as compared in the Argentina side. However, the prices of the hotels and transfers to/from the Falls from the Brazil side are more expensive. Travel time is also longer by 1-2 hours depending on the waiting time when crossing the border.
© 2012 by Michelle Riel, retains sole copyright to her contributions to all the contents of this site.
